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Kumamoto Specialty “Horse Meat”: 4 Ways to Enjoy It ③ Won’t You Indulge in “Uma-shabu” with a Shining, Golden Broth?

2025/12/24

Kumamoto Specialty “Horse Meat”: 4 Ways to Enjoy It ③ Won’t You Indulge in “Uma-shabu” with a Shining, Golden Broth?

Photo/
Mori Kenichi
Text/
Chase Sutherland,Taninaka Takashi

“Shabu-shabu” — Sakura-an

In the central district of Kumamoto City, there is a renowned restaurant called “Sakura-an” that serves horse meat as “shabu-shabu.” While enjoying the specialty “Uma-shabu Course” to the fullest, we spoke with the owner, Mr. Shoichi Fukushima, about the secrets behind its deliciousness and popularity.
(左)Mr. Shoichi Fukushima、(右)奥様の正美(まさみ)さん

The secret to its deliciousness is “green chili peppers (jalapeños).”

“Basically, it is a shiro-dashi (white broth). To that, I add green chili peppers called jalapeños.” The owner, Mr. Shoichi Fukushima, thus shared with us the secret of the “deliciousness” hidden within the broth. He explained that the cut of meat served is from around the ribs. “This part has the best balance of fat distribution; the sweetness of the fat and the umami of the lean meat pair perfectly with the spicy broth.”
Mr. Fukushima is also uncompromising when it comes to sourcing. To serve the finest cuisine every day, he goes to source ingredients at 9:00 AM, handles the preparations, and opens the shop at 6:00 PM. He goes to bed at 3:00 in the morning. It is said that he has maintained this lifestyle for 30 years. “The more I practice Japanese cuisine, the more I realize how vital the ingredients are. Since I cannot compromise, I inspect and verify everything myself when sourcing. Because I never carry over leftovers to the next day, I have currently narrowed the menu down to only the horse shabu-shabu course and operate on a reservation basis requiring notice by the previous day.”
Furthermore, the vegetables and rice served at Sakura-an are reportedly home-grown. “Since I value seasonality, using produce from my own fields and rice paddies allows me to serve them at their absolute peak,” he shared.
Why does he go to such great lengths and put in so much time and effort? “I have loved cooking since I was in elementary school. It is because the smiles of people saying ‘delicious’ after eating my food made me happy.” Both now and in the future, Sakura-an spares no effort for the sake of the smiles of those who visit. A horse meat shabu-shabu filled with love and nutrition. It is highly recommended.

(Left) Mr. Shoichi Fukushima; (Right) his wife, Masami.

(Left) Mr. Shoichi Fukushima; (Right) his wife, Masami. The business was established in 1990, when Shoichi was 23 years old.

the horse meat

The rich fat melts in your mouth, while the savory aroma of the broth, a hint of spiciness, and the sweetness released from the vegetables all work together to enhance the umami of the horse meat.

Sashimi of seasonal fish delivered directly from Amakusa

Sashimi of seasonal fish delivered directly from Amakusa. Their freshness is constantly maintained in the restaurant’s on-site live tanks.

Renkon Manju

Sakura-an’s specialty “Renkon Manju,” featuring the flavor of lotus root and a chewy, mochi-like texture with a subtle hint of mustard.

aki-sawara

Rich, fatty autumn Spanish mackerel (aki-sawara). The juicy fat and tender flesh create a wonderful contrast.

Since being featured in the “Michelin Guide Kumamoto/Oita 2018 Special Edition,” the restaurant has seen many repeat customers from outside the prefecture. Early reservations are highly recommended!

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Kumamoto Prefecture is No. 1 in the domestic production of horse meat.

According to the Livestock Distribution Survey by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, the total annual domestic production of horse meat reached its peak in 1995 at 8,390.5 tons. Since then, due to ongoing issues such as a lack of successors and a decline in demand, production fell to 3,670.2 tons in 2016, which was less than half of the peak volume. However, with the increasing popularity of horse meat in recent years, the total domestic production recovered to 4,873.5 tons in 2022. Of that amount, production in Kumamoto Prefecture accounted for 2,134.3 tons, reaching approximately 44% of the total. Furthermore, Kumamoto Prefecture has ranked first in production by prefecture every single year from 2003, when the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries began surveying horse meat production by prefecture, through to 2022.

Fiscal Year 2022: Share of Horse Meat Production by Prefecture (%)

Store Information

Store Information
Sakura-an

●Location / 2-1 Chuogai, Chuo-ku,

Kumamoto City, Kumamoto 860-0802

●Business Hours / 6:00 PM – 10:30 PM

●Closed / Irregular holidays

●eating / 6 counter seats, 4 private rooms

(available for parties of 2 or more)

●Phone Number / 096-351-4992

*Reservations are strictly required. Please make your booking by the previous day.

About 「pomodoro」……

“pomodoro” is a free magazine that conveys Kumamoto's gourmet and culture with the concept of “For an Even More Delicious Kumamoto.” It is published three times a year and distributed at key transportation hubs and tourist attractions in Kumamoto City.
“pomodoro” means “tomato” in Italian. An editor from Rome has said “Starting with tomatoes, many ingredients in Italian cuisine are common to those found in Kumamoto.” pomodoro’s editors, which include three international staff members, conduct interviews, write articles, and proofread the final work.
This free magazine and its website is published by COAMIX Inc., a manga publisher with a second headquarters in Takamori Town in the Aso region of Kumamoto.