Just a five-minute drive from Ikeyama Source—a natural spring in Ubuyama Village, Aso, praised as being so transparent it cannot even be captured in a photograph. Upon visiting the tofu workshop of Shiga Food Store, that very celebrated water was flowing in abundance.
More than 80 percent of tofu is made of water. What if that water were renowned spring water? We paid a visit to a long-established establishment founded over a century ago to find out.
“Eiko is naturally suited to making tofu.”
The Ikeyama Source is not merely renowned water, but ultra-soft water said to be ideal for making tofu. When tofu is prepared with hard water, its minerals and calcium bind with the protein of the soybeans, causing the tofu to harden. “Where the water is delicious, the tofu is delicious too. I suppose it depends on personal preference, but I think I prefer it softer,” says shopkeeper Eiko Shiga. The tofu at Shiga Food Store is distinguished by the smoky flavor of soybeans cooked in a large cauldron. A size larger than ordinary tofu, a single bite fills your mouth with the rich sweetness and deep complexity of the soybeans, while a pleasant toastiness rises through your nose. “We use twice the usual amount of domestic soybeans, so there is really no profit to speak of,” she told us with a cheerful smile.
More than 40 years have passed since Ms. Eiko took over the shop. The catalyst was her great-grandmother’s last words: “Eiko is naturally suited to making tofu.” Perhaps her great-grandmother knew that Ms. Eiko was someone who would forever hold onto that simple wish: “I want every visitor to enjoy truly delicious tofu.”
An order for 100 pieces from Okinawa!
Deep-fried tofu with nationwide popularity.
Just drizzling a little soy sauce on it turns it into a feast.
Impressively thick deep-fried tofu is this shop’s signature item. Orders arrive from all across the country, and on some days, they reportedly make as many as 100 pieces. They fry the tofu slowly and thoroughly for 30 full minutes, utilizing a combination of high- and low-temperature oil.
“If the frying time is too short, it shrinks when it cools down. Ours is meaty so it doesn’t shrink much, but I still want to be attentive,” says Ms. Eiko as she diligently checks on the tofu and turns it over, causing the already thick blocks to swell even further in volume. Tasting a piece fresh out of the fryer, a satisfyingly crunchy texture complements the deep richness of the tofu, creating a vibrant unfolding of flavors.
As I marvelled at the taste of the deep-fried tofu, Ms. Eiko brought over a dish of simmered nishime from the kitchen. Shiitake mushrooms, potatoes, konjac, and deep-fried tofu. Placing a piece of the tofu—still hearty and thick even after simmering—into my mouth, a rich burst of savory broth filled my palate. Having soaked up all the flavors of the cooking liquid without losing its original toastiness and depth, the deep-fried tofu commanded a starring presence in the dish.
Inside the shop, there is also an eat-in space, and they will gladly lend you soy sauce to use on the spot. Just a five-minute drive from Ikeyama Source, extend your journey just a short way further and be sure not to miss this luxurious tofu, brimming to the absolute fullest with the blessings of pristine spring water.
From 2:00 AM until around 6:00 AM, Ms. Eiko is constantly on the move.
Even in the hot workshop, the tofu is deep-fried slowly and patiently.
